Imagine standing amidst a sprawling plain dotted with thousands of ancient temples, their golden spires glowing under the sunrise, with hot air balloons drifting silently above. This is Old Bagan, Myanmar—an ancient city that feels like a portal to another era. Once the heart of the Pagan Kingdom from the 9th to 13th centuries, Bagan was a thriving center of religion, culture, and architecture, boasting over 10,000 temples at its peak.
Today, over 2,200 of these sacred structures remain, making it one of the world’s most significant archaeological sites and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019. Whether you’re a history buff, a spiritual seeker, or a traveler craving unique experiences, Old Bagan offers a journey through time that’s unlike anywhere else. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to explore this mystical destination, from its iconic temples to practical travel details like distance, elevation, and difficulty.
Why Visit Old Bagan?
Old Bagan is a living testament to Myanmar’s rich history and spiritual heritage. From the 9th to 13th centuries, it served as the capital of the Pagan Kingdom, the first to unify the regions that form modern Myanmar. During this golden age, the city was a hub of Buddhist scholarship, attracting monks and scholars from across Asia. The sheer scale of its temple-filled landscape—spanning 104 square kilometers—sets it apart from other archaeological sites like Angkor Wat. Unlike crowded tourist hotspots, Bagan remains relatively untouched, offering a serene and authentic experience. The temples, ranging from towering stupas to intricate hollow gu-style structures, showcase exquisite craftsmanship, with some housing ancient murals and Buddha relics. Visiting Old Bagan is not just about sightseeing; it’s about feeling the weight of history and the tranquility of a sacred place that has endured for over a millennium.
Getting to Old Bagan
Distance from Major Cities
Old Bagan is located in Myanmar’s Mandalay Region, approximately 180 km (110 miles) southwest of Mandalay and 700 km (430 miles) north of Yangon. From Mandalay, the journey takes about 4 hours by road or 30 minutes by flight. From Yangon, expect a 10-hour bus ride, a 15-hour train journey, or a 1.5-hour flight. For those coming from Inle Lake, the drive takes around 7–8 hours. The city is also accessible via the Irrawaddy River, with cruises offering a scenic route from Mandalay or Yangon, though these can take 1–2 days depending on the itinerary.
Transportation Options
Flight: The fastest way to reach Old Bagan is by flying into Nyaung-U Airport (NYU), which serves domestic flights from Yangon International Airport (YIA) and Mandalay International Airport (MAI). One-way flights from Yangon cost around $100 USD, while Mandalay flights are about $65 USD. The airport is just 30 minutes from Old Bagan by taxi.
Bus: Comfortable overnight buses from Yangon or Mandalay are a budget-friendly option, costing $11–20 USD. Buses from Mandalay drop you directly in Old Bagan, while those from Yangon may stop in New Bagan, requiring a short taxi ride.
Private Car: A private taxi from Mandalay costs around $87 USD for a 4-hour drive, offering flexibility to stop at villages or Mount Popa en route.
Train: The overnight train from Yangon is scenic but bumpy, taking over 15 hours. It’s best for adventurers who don’t mind a slower pace.
River Cruise: Luxury cruises along the Irrawaddy River start at $200 USD for a 1–2 day journey, providing a unique way to arrive while enjoying Myanmar’s culture and scenery.
Exploring the Temples of Old Bagan
Top Temples to Visit
Old Bagan’s temples are its heart and soul, each with unique stories and architectural styles. Here are must-visit sites:
Ananda Temple: Known as the “Westminster Abbey of Burma,” this 11th-century temple is one of Bagan’s best-preserved, with whitewashed walls, 1,500 stone carvings, and four golden Buddha statues. Its annual festival in December draws locals in colorful bullock carts.
Shwezigon Pagoda: Built in 1102 AD, this gold-plated stupa houses a tooth and bone of Gautama Buddha. Its bell-shaped design influenced many later temples.
Dhammayangyi Temple: The largest temple in Bagan, built in 1170 AD, is famous for its intricate brickwork, though it remains unfinished due to the assassination of its founder, King Narathu.
Shwesandaw Pagoda: Known for its steep steps and panoramic views, this temple is a favorite for sunrise and sunset, though climbing is now restricted to designated platforms.
Gu Byauk Gyi Temple: A 12th-century gem with well-preserved murals and Indian-influenced architecture, located in Myinkaba village.
Best Times for Temple Exploration
The best time to visit is between December and May, when the weather is dry and temperatures range from 20–30°C (68–86°F). June to November brings the rainy season, with short but heavy showers. For temple exploration, start early in the morning (around 5 AM) to catch the sunrise and avoid the midday heat, which can reach 40°C (104°F) in April. Sunset visits are equally magical, especially at temples like Shwesandaw or along the Irrawaddy River.
Activities in Old Bagan
Hot Air Balloon Rides
A sunrise hot air balloon ride over Bagan’s temple-strewn plains is a bucket-list experience. Offered from October to April, these rides cost $280–450 USD and provide breathtaking views of pagodas bathed in golden light. Book well in advance, especially during peak season (December–January).
Cycling and E-Bike Adventures
Renting a bicycle ($2/day) or e-bike ($5–8/day) is the best way to explore Bagan’s 104 km² expanse. Pedal along dirt paths to discover hidden temples and local villages at your own pace. E-bikes are ideal for covering more ground without tiring in the heat.
Irrawaddy River Sunset Cruise
A sunset boat ride on the Irrawaddy River costs around $5 USD for an hour with a local boatman or $50 USD for a luxury cruise with snacks and a guide. The river, Myanmar’s lifeline, offers stunning views of pagodas against the evening sky.
Hiking Mount Popa
Located 50 km southeast of Bagan, Mount Popa is a sacred volcanic plug topped with the Taung Kalat Monastery. The 777-step climb takes about 45 minutes under a covered staircase, with monkeys adding a playful element. The summit, at 1,518 meters above sea level, offers views of Bagan on clear days. The hike is moderately challenging due to the steps but suitable for most fitness levels.
Practical Information for Visitors
Elevation Gain and Max Altitude
Old Bagan’s plains are relatively flat, with minimal elevation gain (less than 50 meters) when exploring by bike or on foot. The max altitude in Old Bagan is approximately 60 meters above sea level. For those hiking Mount Popa, the elevation gain is about 200 meters from the base to the summit at 1,518 meters.
Duration of Visit
Most travelers spend 2–3 days in Old Bagan to explore the major temples, enjoy a sunrise or sunset, and take a hot air balloon ride or river cruise. Add an extra day for a Mount Popa hike or to visit nearby villages. A 5-day Bagan Archaeological Zone ticket (25,000 Kyats/$18 USD) covers all temples.
Difficulty Level
Exploring Old Bagan is easy to moderate, depending on your mode of transport. Cycling or e-biking is beginner-friendly, with flat terrain and well-trodden paths. Temple interiors may involve climbing steep, narrow stairs, so wear sturdy shoes. The Mount Popa hike is moderate due to the continuous steps but manageable with breaks. Always stay hydrated and protect yourself from the sun.
Travel Tips and Cultural Etiquette
Dress Respectfully: Cover shoulders and knees when visiting temples, and remove shoes and socks before entering.
Bagan Archaeological Zone Ticket: Purchase this $18 USD ticket upon arrival (valid for 5 days). Checks are rare, but carry it to avoid issues.
Sun Protection: Bring sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses, as the sun is intense, especially from March to May.
Cash is King: Many places don’t accept cards, so carry Myanmar Kyats. ATMs are available in Nyaung-U.
Respect the Sites: Climbing temples is banned since 2018 to preserve them. Stick to designated platforms.
Where to Stay in Old Bagan
Old Bagan offers a range of accommodations, from budget hostels to luxury resorts. Stay in Old Bagan for proximity to major temples, Nyaung-U for budget options and transport hubs, or New Bagan for a quieter vibe. Notable options include:
Ananta Hotel (Nyaung-U): A 4-star hotel with a pool and free bikes, near Shwezigon Pagoda, costing $45/night.
Aureum Palace Hotel & Resort (Old Bagan): A luxury option amidst the temples, starting at $100/night.
Winner Guesthouse (Nyaung-U): Budget-friendly at $20/night for a clean, air-conditioned room.
Book in advance during peak season (December–January) to secure your spot.
Dining in Old Bagan
Bagan’s cuisine blends Thai, Chinese, and Indian influences, with vegetarian-friendly options like curries and noodle dishes. Try:
The Moon (Old Bagan): A vegetarian restaurant near Ananda Temple, serving local dishes for $3–5.
Starbeam Bistro (New Bagan): Offers Western and Burmese dishes in a cozy setting, with meals costing $5–10.
Local Stalls: Fresh fruit juices and street food in Nyaung-U markets are delicious and cost under $2. Avoid plastic straws to reduce waste.
FAQs About Visiting Old Bagan
Q: How many days do I need in Old Bagan?
A: Plan 2–3 days to explore the main temples, enjoy a sunrise or sunset, and try activities like a hot air balloon ride. Add a day for Mount Popa or village visits.
Q: Is it safe to travel to Old Bagan?
A: Yes, Old Bagan is generally safe for tourists, with friendly locals and low crime rates. Check travel advisories due to Myanmar’s political situation.
Q: Can I climb the temples in Bagan?
A: Climbing temples has been banned since 2018 to preserve them. Use designated viewing platforms for panoramic views.
Q: What’s the best way to get around Old Bagan?
A: E-bikes ($5–8/day) or bicycles ($2/day) are the most flexible and affordable ways to explore the temples. Horse carts and taxis are also available.
Q: When is the best time to visit Old Bagan?
A: Visit between December and May for dry weather and cooler temperatures. Avoid April for intense heat and June–September for heavy rains.
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